We checked in to a budget hotel and went to sleep for 3 hours. Our plan was to go to the famous viewpoint for sunrise. At 2.30 AM our alarm went off, and we dragged ourselves out of bed to hike up a mountain (crazy I know). The landscape was lit by the moon and very peaceful, something I'm not used to in Indonesia. It reminded me of my late night walks with friends when I was younger. I could hide in the darkness, independent and adventurous. We bought some hot tea from a drinks vendor as a cold mist dampened us near the base of the viewpoint.
The hike up was thigh-burning, but short. At the top we were part of a small crowd who had the same idea as us, but most of them had taken a jeep instead of walking like us. The sky began to gray and all at once the sun drew a brilliant red brushstroke in the sky. As it rose, more quickly than you would think, everyone's face was glowing golden and happy and cold. The clouds broke and below us we saw a surreal landscape: The wide, smoking crater of Bromo, a green conical volcano right next to that, and in the distance the tallest peak in Java towering up above it all. All of this was set in a massive sand pit, presumably another gigantic volcano cradling these other three gods.
The sun burned higher in the sky and we went back to town for lunch (breakfast?). The walk back was amazing, it was like being transported 150 years into the past and into Eastern Europe or something. The green quilt of onion and cabbage feilds were peppered with spindly pine trees, rustic cottages, and little old ladies with bandeu style head scarves tilling the feilds. Later we realized something that added to the beauty and timelessness of this world: there were no power lines. These villagers had no electrical power. There was also an eerie but wonderful lack of plastic trash littering the roads. I saw a man on a cute gaited pony riding down the road and stopped to watch. He offered to rent the pony to me and I agreed.
After lunch we started for the volcano, me on Ponee the pony, and Travis on foot. The flat, open "Sea of Sand" was a fun place to be riding, so open and beautiful, I felt so free on my steed. Ponee was a joy to ride, light to the touch, responsive and happy to be ridden. As we approached Bromo a few men tried to sell us flowers as offerings for the Volcano God. We climbed up the steps (Ponee stayed at the bottom) and I gasped a little as I looked into the pit. The crater was wide and billowing out smoke, and around it the rim undulated with jagged gray peaks and curves. It was like something from Star Wars. I was seized with a fear of falling into the crater that didn't leave me until we were back on the stairs an hour and 1/2 later.
We walked around the rim, way out to the other side. Unsurprisingly the smell of sulphur was thick in the air and seemed to be emenating from the rim and the pit ubiquitously. In some parts the "path" was quite narrow and slippery, although I made sure to orient myself to fall out of the volcano rather than in to it if I lost my footing. It was still rather terrifying. You just never know if you're afraid of volcanoes until you're there sometimes you know? Travis encouraged me on and we reached the top of a high peak on the rim. We were totally alone here except for the beetles, and it felt like we could be the only people in the whole world. Once we got halfway around, I decided I didnt want to go all the way and so we turned back (I know, it sounds ridiculous but to go the same way woud have been harder and more trecherous).
We got back to the stairs and I was finally able to relax a little again. I rode Ponee back to the town, leaving Travis a bit behind, but no matter. I fed Ponne the carrots I had been saving for him and he left with his owner. We ate a well needed lunch and went to the hotel. It felt like it should be the evening but it was really only 2.30 PM, 12 hours after we had left for the viewpoint. We decided to take a quick little nap and didnt wake up until 9 PM. Surprisingly, we fell back asleep at midnight and woke up feeling very nice and refereshed for our travel to Surabaya the next day.
We are now couchsurfing in Surabaya, thanks to www.couchsurfing.org which connect travelers with people who have couches to stay on. Its a great way to meet people from other places and totally rewarding and safe. I reccomend signing up for this site if you haven't already! Our hosts here are so kind, they feed us every day and are even taking us to thier nephew's traditional Indonesian wedding in a few hours. Speaing of which, I'd better go get ready!
On a sad note, my dog died this week. Poor Reuben. If any of you would like to read his eulogy just ask me and I will send it. On a happier note, it is my birthday in 2 days! If you would like to make me happy for my birthday please donate money to the World Wildlife Foundation. You can do that here:
https://secure2.convio.net/
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